박혜경 Hye Kyong Park , 김남수 Nam Soo Kim , 문태기 Tae Kee Moon , 김보라 Bora Kim , 정호영 Ho Young Jung

DOI:

Abstract

Until recently, the three conventional evaluation methods, which are instrumental (Chromameter^Ⓡ CR-400 and Mexameter^Ⓡ M18) and visual assessments have been used frequently for skin color evaluation. However, we took notice the potential of image analysis as a new tool to evaluate color change of skin. To reveal the reliability of the image analysis for the evaluation of whitening agents, 34 healthy female volunteers with hyperpigmentation were recruited, and the selected volunteers applied the whitening products containing Vitamin C twice a day in the morning and evening and received iontophoresis treatments once a week for 8 weeks. The changes in hyperpigmentation evaluated by Chromameter^Ⓡ, Mexameter^Ⓡ and visual assessment were compared with the results from the image analysis. As with L* value trends of the analysis using Chromameter^Ⓡ, the V value from the image analysis increased after applying the test products compared with baseline values. Furthermore, V value showed a positive correlation with L* value (r = 0.494, p < 0.01) and negative correlation with MI (r = - 0.683, p < 0.01) and VG (r = - 0.549, p < 0.01). Therefore, image analysis may be considered as an effective method to complement the limitations of visual assessment for whitening efficacy in Asians.

Key Words

image analysis, evaluating method, efficacy, skin color, cosmetics

서동환 Dong Hoan Seo , 윤종혁 Jong Hyuk Yoon , 김연준 Youn Joon Kim , 변상요 Sang Yo Byun

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Abstract

Resveratrol is a natural polyphenol. It protects skin from skin injury, ultraviolet radiation and pathogenic attack. This study is to find the optimum condition for the preparation of ethosome loading amount of resveratrol in ethosome. Ethosomes were prepared by modified hydrated liquid crystal method. Investigation of factors affecting the entrapment efficiency and particle size of ethosomes was carried out. The particle size of ethosome were measured by particle analyzer. The loading efficiency of resveratrol in ethosome was measured by HPLC. The particle sizes were 111.2 ~ 112.8 nm and the loading efficiency of resveratrol was 81.25 ~ 88.75%. The optimum conditions for the preparation of ethosome was obtained from of lecithin : resveratrol : cholesterol : ethanol at a weight ratio of 2.0 : 0.08 : 0.05 : 20.0.

Key Words

ethosome, lecithin, resveratrol, cholesterol, ethanol

남개원 Gaewon Nam

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Abstract

The measurement of hydration level in the surface layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC), gives important information on the biophysical properties and function of the skin barrier such as softness, flexibility, and healthiness of the skin. But it is difficult to measure a consistent hydration level from a sample to another sample due to individual variations and environmental changes. The aim of this study was to evaluate objective hydration after using various products in the SC. The SC Hydration was measured by capacitance (CorneometerⓇ, C+K, Germany) on the ventral site of forearm from 40 healthy volunteers. The skin surface was chronologically measured immediately after application of the test products and 3 and 6 hours later. We analyzed the averages of five measurements of each site and used the hydration increase rate for correction on untreated site variation. We found that most polyols including glycerol and butylenes glycol influenced directly the hydration increase rate in the SC previously. In this study, glycerol was used to prepare the standard products from 0 to 20 percents and applied to the same volunteers. The individual standard curve showed linear relation to glycerol concentrations. Based on the the standard curve, hydration of SC was converted into hydration increase rate to glycerol concentrations. The converted glycerol concentrations of products were repetitive and reproducible. In addition, the individual standard curve was used to relate the skin type of each individual. These results suggest that the hydration of the SC standardized regardless of external variation and individual skin condition can explain detailed skin state variation. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with other methods for noninvasive measurement.

Key Words

stratum corneum, hydration, polyol, standard curve and skin type

손홍하 Hong Ha Son , 유재원 Jae Won Yu , 김경섭 Kyung Seob Kim

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Abstract

In general, the pearlescent pigment is a pigment which was used for optical characteristics like pearl, rainbow and metallic luster. Titanium dioxide coated mica plate developed by DuPont in 1965 is currently being used as a main part of pearlescent pigment for cosmetics. Although the smooth and clear surface substrate laminated with 2 ~ 3 ingredients is thicker than a previous monolayer coated substrate, it has been applied for cosmetics as the optical interference powder to realize stronger shine and brighter interference color than monolayer one. In this study, we developed a new optical interference powder with thinner and higher chroma than a current pearlescent pigment for the strong luster and bright interference color. It was prepared from the manufacturing process, in which the coated titanium dioxide precursor was changed and crystallized by coating and heat treatment process with a half of dividing the coated amount of titanium dioxide. We confirmed the dense coating of titanium dioxide grain with Scanning Electron Microscope and measured superior crystallization degree compared with a monolayer coated pearlescent pigment by X-ray Diffraction. It is concluded that our new pearlescent pigment had higher reflectivity of light and stronger interference color than previous products.

Key Words

pearlescent pigment, Interference intensity, precursor, grain size, light reflectivity

정진주 Jin-ju Jeong , 김동현 Dong-hyun Kim

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Abstract

We investigated the growth-inhibitory activities of cosmetics and their preservatives against pathogens and resident skin bacteria. Of the tested cosmetics, preservatives such as parabens, 1,2-hexanediol, phenoxyethanol-contained toner, emulsion, cream and baby cream exhibited potent antibacterial effects against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Parabens, 1,2-hexanediol and phenoxyethanol inhibited the growth of pathogens, as well as skin-resident bacteria such as Staphilococcus epidermidis, Shigella flexneri, Enterobacter aerogenes and so on. The application of a basic cream containing phenoxyethanol to human skin was shown to disturb the skin microbiota: at the phylum level, Proteobacteria increased and at species level, 4P004125_s increased and Propionibacterium humerusii decreased. Based on these findings, parabens, 1,2-hexanediol and phenoxyethanol have antimicrobial activity and cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol may disturb skin microbiota.

Key Words

cosmetic, preservative, skin microbiota, growth inhibition

김효진 Hyo Jin Kim , 이소영 So Young Lee , 김도형 Do Hyung Kim , 진무현 Mu Hyun Jin , 노석선 Seok-seon Roh , 김형민 Hyung-min Kim , 최인화 In-hwa Choi , 이명수 Myeong Soo Lee , 이상화 Sang Hwa Lee

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Abstract

Cell senescence can be identified by cellular changes that occur as a result of intrinsic aging and/or diseases. In case of skin cells, aging and cell senescence caused by external factors results in cessation of cell proliferation and cellular malfunction, which, in turn, accelerates skin aging. In this study, inhibition of cell senescence and enhancement of cell function were studied using cordycepin to evaluate the potential for skin anti-aging agent. By comparing with the number of senescence associated with β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) positive cells in young and replicative aged human fibroblasts, it was found that replicative aged cells showed higher expression of β-galactosidase. Treatment of cor dycepin - known as an anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory agent - reduced β-galactosidase expression in senescent cells and enhanced cell survival in serum-free culture condition. Cordycepin also showed superb inhibition of ROS, which is another indicator of cell senescence. The results of this study proved the anti-aging effect of cordycepin on human fibroblasts and also proposed a possibility of its use as an anti-aging cosmetic ingredient.

Key Words

anti-aging, cordycepin, cell senescence, dermal fibroblasts, β-galactosidase

홍용덕 Yong Deog Hong , 변경희 Kyoung Hee Byoun , 박미영 Miyoung Park , 박준성 Jun Seong Park , 신송석 Song Seok Shin

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Abstract

This study demonstrates an effective one-pot regioselective synthesis of 3,7-diarylpyrazolo [1,5-α]pyrimidines. Moreover, the derivatives obtained were effective CB1R antagonists. These pyrazolo [1,5-α]pyrimidines with diaryl groups at the 3,7-positions are potential pharmacophores for CB1R candidates.

Key Words

aminopyrazoles, aryl ketoesters, regioselective synthesis, 3,7-diarylpyrazolo[1,5-α]pyrimidines

박정옥 Jung Ok Park , 박진오 Jin Oh Park , 주철규 Chul Gue Joo

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Abstract

In this study, we prepared Eriobotrya japonica leaf extracts by several extraction processes and then evaluated their biological activities for their potential application as a new raw material of functional cosmetic. Their whitening effects were measured by tyrosinase inhibitory activities, and anti-inflammatory effects were determined by inhibitory activities of nitric oxide (NO) production. Among the several extracts obtained from E. japonica leaf, supercritical fluid extract showed tyrosinase inhibitory activities at the concentration of 10%. Inhibitory activity on NO production effect related to anti-inflammatory efficacy was in the order: supercritical fluid extract > ethanol extract > hot water extract. According to the results of MTT assay, cell cytotoxicity was not observed at all concentrations except for a 5% concentration of the 70% ethanol extract. For whitening effects, 30% ethanol and 70% ethanol extract showed mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity at the concentration of 5%. These results indicated that E. japonica leaf extracts could have the functional effects when they are added as ingredients in cosmetics.

Key Words

Eriobotrya japonica leaf, whitening, anti-inflammation, cosmetics

최화정 Hwa-jung Choi , 이정희 Jung-hee Lee , 윤미영 Mi-young Yun , 이재숙 Jae-sug Lee

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Abstract

To identify new anti-inflammatory and whitening material, this study investigated the whitening and anti-inflammatory effects of the lyophilized powder from 6 oriental plant extracts (OPE; Citrus junos Tanaka, Mori cortex Radicis, Schisandra chinensis Baillon, Coix lachrymajobi var. mayuen, Angelica gigas NAKAI, and Sophora japonica L.) fermented with Streptococcus thermophilus by assessment of cytotoxicity on human dermal fibroblast, inhibitory effect of nitric oxide (NO) prodction, tyrosinase activity and melanin formation. The OPE was fermented with Streptococcus thermophilus at 37 ℃ for 2 days and the lyophilized powder was manufactured by freezing-dryer. OPE didn’t show cytotoxicity at concentration of 500 μg/mL using a cytopathic effect reduction method. OPE also exhibited inhibitory effect on nitric oxide (NO) prodction by Griess reagent system. Furthermore, OPE showed inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity with dose dependent manner, and exhibited significant inhibition of melanin formation by measurement of melanin from culture media (p < 0.05). From these results, 6 OPE extracts showed anti-inflammatory and whitening effect and may be used as an active ingredient for cosmetics.

Key Words

anti-inflammatory, whitening, fermented powder, Streptococcus thermophilus, cosmetics

이혜자 Hye Ja Lee , 김기옥 Gi Ok Kim , 박진오 Jin Oh Park , 주철규 Chul Gue Joo

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, we investigated the antioxidant, whitening and anti-inflammatory effects of 12 species of wild mushrooms in Jeju Island. Their anti-oxidative effects were measured by the free radical scavenging activity using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and tyrosinase inhibitory activities were determined for the whitening effect. In addition, inhibitory activities of NO production for anti-inflammation were investigated. As a result, Elfvingia applanata extract and Fomitopsidaceae sp. extracts showed higher free radical scavenging activities (FSC₅₀; 74.8 μg/mL, 182.6 μg/mL respectively) than other extracts. Elfvingia applanata extract (IC₅₀; 346.8 μg/mL) showed higher activity than the Arbutin (IC50; 421.6 μg/mL) on tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Elfvingia applanata extract and Daedaleopsis styracina extract showed anti-inflammatory activity of 74.1% and 62.9% respectively, at the concentration of 100 μg/mL. Furthermore, the extracts inhibited NO production in a dose-dependent manner. In conclusion, we evaluated the biological activities of 12 species of wild mushrooms in Jeju Island, Elfvingia applanata, Fomitopsidaceae sp. and Daedaleopsis styracina could have the functional effects as a cosmetic raw material.

Key Words

wild mushroom, Jeju Island, anti-oxidant, tyrosinase inhibition, anti-inflammation

이경은 Kyung Eun Lee , 이은선 Eun Sun Lee , 강상구 Sang Gu Kang

DOI:

Abstract

In the present study, antioxidant activities and tyrosinase inhibition of Perilla frutescens, Houttuynia cordata and Camellia sinensis extracts and the extract mixtures (PHC) were investigated. PHC showed 80.2% and 98.0% of free radical scavenging activity in DPPH and ABTS analysis, respectively, and 50% tyrosinase inhibition in 1000 μg/mL concentration. HaCaT cells did not show cell toxicity in 100 μg/mL of the PHC. Furthermore, HaCaT cell viability by co-culture with extract H. cordata was increased more than 10% compared with untreated cells. However, the cell viability was decreased in 500 μg/mL of the extract C. sinensis and the PHC. These results suggested that about 100 μg/mL concentration of the PHC showed proper tyrosinase inhibitory effect and antioxidant activities. The PHC could be used as multifunctional cosmeceutical agents.

Key Words

anti-oxidant, DPPH, ABTS, tyrosinase inhibition, cell viability

김경진 Kyeong Jin Kim , 김아현 Ah Hyun Gim , 김지현 Ji Hyun Kim , 김도희 Do Hee Kim , 이서린 Seo Rin Lee , 박지현 Jee Hyun Park , 임지원 Ji Won Lim , 하지훈 Ji Hoon Ha , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, the methanol fraction and aglycone fraction were made from Gynura procumbens (G. procumbens) extracts and their antioxidative effects were investigated. The free radical scavenging activity (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH), total antioxidant capacity by luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay, and the protective effects against reactive oxygen species (ROS) in erythrocytes were measured to evaluate the antioxidative activities of the extracts. Free radical scavenging activities (FSC₅₀) of the methanol fraction and aglycone fraction were 90.25 and 81.38 μg/mL, respectively. Total antioxidant capacities (OSC₅₀) of the methanol fraction and aglycone fraction were 16.96 and 12.30 μg/mL, respectively. The free radical scavenging activity and total antioxidant capacity of the aglycone fraction were greater than those of methanol fraction. The cellular protective effect on the ¹O₂-induced cellular damage of human erythrocytes was confirmed by τ₅₀ value. The τ₅₀ value of the methanol fraction and agly cone fraction were 36.7 min and 76.1 min, respectively in 5 μg/mL, and the aglycone fraction showed about 2 times higher cellular protecive effect than (+)-α-tocopherol (35.4 min). These results indicate that the aglycone fraction of G. procumbens extracts has application possibility as antioxidant ingredient of cosmetic.

Key Words

reactive oxygen species, free radical, antioxidant, Gynura procumbens, cellular protecive effects